How to replace a clutch in a 03-07 Infiniti 6 speed.
Now as a word of precaution I must start by saying this is not something I would recommend doing in your driveway as the transmission is not only pretty heavy but there are bolts that need to accessed on the top of the bell housing. These directions will be from the perspective of those who have a lift.
1. Start by removing the negative battery cable.
*While the car is on the ground make sure that its in neutral and
the parking brake is off.
2. After waiting three minutes raise the car and get the necessary tools ready, and if you see rust on any of the bolts that will be removed it is a wise idea to apply penetrating oil now.
3. Once you have everything laid out start by removing the Y pipe and gaskets and set them aside. (6 14mm nuts)
4. Mark the drive shaft current position with paint, finger nail polish works well too.
*Once it is marked remove the 17mm nuts attaching the half shaft
to the carrier bearing. (A thin wall 3/8″ socket with a 1/2″ adapter
works best) Infiniti recommends replacing these four bolts
whenever they are removed and I always do.
*Be extra careful when setting the shaft on the ground as any
damage to the yolk cover will cause an awful noise.
5. Remove the black rubber cover that connects the shifter to the transmission. Remove the bolt and set aside
*There is a 12mm bolt here its easily identified in a pile as the
only one with grease on it.
6. Remove the small black plastic cover under the bell housing.
Remove the black metal cross bar 6 14mm bolts and 2 19mm
Next remove the two 14mm bolt facing the front of the car. On
the lower part of the bellhousing.
7.Remove the 4 14mm nuts securing the catalysts to the transmission
*Penetrating oil may be needed
8. Next remove the 2 12mm bolts securing the clutch slave cylinder and set it aside, but do not disconnect the line as it is not necessary.
9. On the drivers side of the transmission there to the right of the steering shaft you will notice a plate for the RH drive models, This needs to be removed.
*There are 2 14mm bolts one forward facing and one rearward.
10. Disconnect the started solenoid plug and the crank position sensor 1 10mm bolt. Remove the the reverse sensor and neutral switch and compress the tabs on the harness to remove them or remove the 10mm bolts securing the harness tie downs.
*Set the wiring harness aside (I usually rest it on top of the cats
to keep it from getting damaged)
11. Remove the 4 12mm bolts securing the gear shift mount, and face it rearward
*I find that Snap On ratchet wrenches work best for this
12. On the right side of the engine remove the 1 14mm and 1 17mm starter mounting bolts.
*Removal is not usually necessary it can be set back and not get
in the way.
13. There is a 17mm bolt located on the motor side and secures the engine and trans
*A stubby or ratchet wrench works best here
14. Put a transmission jack under the transmission main housing and secure it using a strap or appropriate hold down.
15. Remove the 4 14mm bolts on the rear mount bolts.
16. Lower the transmission almost as much as it will go
*Not too far so as not to damage the motor mounts
17. Remove the 6 17mm transmission bellhousing bolts
18. Wiggle the transmission loose and pull it a STRAIGHT back.
1. Inspect the movement of the release bearing and it’s operations.
*It should always be replaced and the bell housing cleaned.
*If the pivot fork is removed be sure to add a small amount of
grease to the ball.
2. Remove the 8 12mm bolts securing the pressure plate to the flywheel.
*Be sure to keep the bolts and washers together.
*The clutch plate will fall out when removed.
3. Inspect the condition of all mating surfaces any bluing or cracks indicate overheating and it is HIGHLY recommended that the flywheel,disc, and plate be replaced.
4. Remove the flywheel with the 8 T50 torx bit bolts.
5. IT IS CRITICAL TO NOTE THE POSITION OF THE SMALL DIMPLE ON THE OUTPUT SIDE OF THE CRANKSHAFT WHEN REINSTALLING THE NEW FLYWHEEL IT IS VITAL THAT THE MARK ON THE FLYWHEEL AND THE MATING MARK LINE UP.
6. When replacing the pilot bearing a special tool is required to prevent damage to the crankshaft.
6.1 Install the puller and adjust it until tight, use the slide
hammer to carefully remove the old bearing
*Keep the new bearing clean and free of grease
6.2 Take the new bearing and using an appropriate driver install
it into the crankshaft until the tone generated changes.
1. When the flywheel is installed be sure tighten using a cross pattern.
2. Install the correct clutch alignment tool into the input shaft hole in the crankshaft.
*I usually apply some anti-sieze to tool, so when the clutch disc
is slid over it the complete lenth of the splines are covered.
3. Slide the clutch disc into position making sure the springs are facing the rear of the car.
4. Now install the clutch pressure plate, securing the bolts in finger tight at this point.
5. Proceed with tightening the bolts in the diagram located here
A TWO STEP TORQUE PROCESS IS REQUIRED
5.1 First, tighten the pressure plate using the above figure to
5.2 Second apply final torque in the above mentioned figure to
6. Remove the alignment tool.
7. Now inspect the bellhousing mating surface to ensure there is no damage/debris that will inhibit proper fitment. Be sure to verify that BOTH dowel pins are installed on either side of the bellhousing.
8. Position the transmission behind the motor and slowly align the dowel pins and ensure fitment of the input shaft into the pilot bearing before applying pressure.
9. Once the transmission is mated correctly with no gap install the bellhousing bolts finger tight. Be sure to reinstall the air breather tube.
9.1 Tighten the bolts in the manner listed in this figure.
9.2 Re route the hiring harness back into position, as it is much
easier to access now.
*Pay close attention to not hyper extend the harness
10. Raise the tranmission to the point to where you can get the shifter bracket can be reconnected. Install the (4 12mm bolts).
11. Install the bolts for the rear transmission mount,(4 14mm short w/ wide flange).
12. Install the bolt above the starter (17mm head) if not previously installed.
12. Install the starter and reconnect the starter solenoid connector, and install the crank position sensor.
13. Install the RH drive starter cover.
14. Reposition the clutch driven (slave) cylinder and tighten.
15. Reinstall the catalyst brace and large black crossmember, as well as the black splash shield.
16. Now verify the transmission is in neutral by moving the gear selector shaft in a clockwise/counter clockwise manner and postion the fork with the shaft containing the bushing. Install and tighten the greasy bolt.
17. Install the rubber dust cover securely in the groove in the round housing.
18. Match the driveshaft segment with the paint marks and install the new bolts and finger tighten.
19. Torque the new rear bolts to 61FT-LBS/83Nm
20. Reinstall the exhaust and tighten the flange nuts.
VERIFICATION OF REPAIR
1. Lower the vehicle
2. Pump the clutch several times until a proper pedal is felt. (bleeding may be necessary)
3. Start the car and raise the wheels off the ground.
4. Turn the VDC off and verify that the transmission operates in all forward gears and reverse without noise.
5. Stop the wheel, apply the parking brake and lower the car.
6. Take the car for a road test, clutch pedal adjustment may be needed or additional bleeding or flushing of the system.
7. Drive the car carefully for the next 1,000 miles or whatever the manufacturer recommends to allow proper time to break in