Overview: Please read this DIY before starting…. I took off the head on a rwd s13 redtop SR20DET engine. I have compiled pictures and information that will help you to do this. I will also have a DIY on installing everything back together (stock).
Tasks: Many other tasks can be done when removing the head:
-Rebuilding head and or block
-Inspection of all internal parts and engine
-Replacing seals, parts, upgrading, etc.
`10mm allen socket (1/2 preferred)
`torque wrench (1/2 preferred)
`ratchet 3/8, 1/2
`set of wrenches
`breaker bar 1/2
`impact gun 1/2 (for crank pulley bolt)
Time: Depending on how fast you work and your skill level, it should take you about 30min to 3hrs. Note that having the engine out makes it much easier and cuts down the time.
I have my engine out of the car already for this writeup.
I have the pictures here: http://s26.photobucket.com/albums/c140/mr3kgt/. If you are planning to do this then I should not have to go into great details about the pre-removal parts and liquids as this takes a bit more mechanical skills. For bolts, screws, and washers, I highly recommend you put them back as soon you remove the parts to keep track of them. Make sure to keep everything in order the way you took them out.
FSM pictures from s14 SR – Please refer to the cautions and procedures.
Be very cautious and take your time as you dont want to mess anything up. Reading up on peoples’ past experiences, if you can’t remove something, then your either missed a step or you skipped a step, so don’t just yank, hammer, call it quits and hope for the best. Instead, take a step back and read.
If you plan to remove your front cover (aka oil pump and or change the front main seal): Make sure to loosen the crank pulley bolt with a impact gun first before setting it to TDC and having the chain positioned correctly. I highly recommend doing it with a impact gun especially if the engine is on a stand. If it still has the transmission, you just have to put it into gear or pull the ebrake up.
You want your camshaft sprocket and chain mating marks lined up as shown in the fsm and in the pictures.
At this point, you do not want to turn your crank again. Make sure to loosen the crank pulley bolt with a impact gun. I highly recommend doing it with a impact gun especially if the engine is on a stand. If it still has the transmission, you just have to put it into gear or pull the e-brake up.
Use the 27mm socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt. Turn in clockwise (to the right) motion until you have set it to the marks on the sprockets matting marks and chains silver links and have your No.1 piston on TDC (2nd line going from the left).
The best way to check is to have good lighting and looking back on the fsm. It takes some people a couple turns or even 60, it all depends. It should turn out like this. Remember not to turn your crank pulley or cams separately.
You want your camshaft sprocket and chain mating marks lined up as shown in the fsm and in the pictures. At this point, you do not want to turn your crank again.
Remove the bolts on the chain tensioner.
Slowly pull on the tensioner. You may have to use a flat head but be very careful as it will snap back real fast causing the chain to snap.
Now remove the Crank Angle Sensor (Camshaft position sensor) or CAS. It’s held by 2 screws (one of mine was missing).
Now, like the tensioner, slowly and carefully pull it out.
Remove the timing guide plate.
Remove the camshaft sprockets. I’m not sure what size the bolts were as I resorted to using an impact gun and socket (no number on it).
Use an adjustable wrench or if you have the suitable size wrench to hold it on the hexagon portion. Make sure it’s slim as I didn’t have one.
As the fsm’s next step is to remove the cams then turbo, you should have already removed the turbo along with the intake manifold beforehand.
Remove the camshaft brackets bolts in order as shown in the FSM or in the picture with I believe a 10 or 12mm.
Remove the tubes and baffle plate.
It should turn out like this, where you can see the rocker arms and the HEAD BOLTS!!!
Remove the outer bolts (4 in total) with a 10mm and 12mm socket, extension and ratchet.
Over to the far left, near the oil catch can:
Below the water neck, and 2 in front of the chain:
This is probably the most difficult part in terms of bolts. They’re on tight – prepare to have an extra 10mm allen socket (thank you lifetime warranty).
Make sure to remove this in order and to do it in steps. This is where the torque wrench comes into play. I believe that this head bolts are on at around 120ft. lbs. You want to do it in 2-3 steps so for example start at 120, than 90, 60, 30 ft. lbs and remove. This all depends on how tight this are as if you check the fsm torque ratings for installing them, they’re only at 78ft lbs after all the other steps. Try different methods to break them loose. Do not do this with an impact gun. A breaker bar and patience is smarter.
I used a screwdriver to hold the chain from falling, you will end up having to to remove the head. Make sure everything is clear as its not attached to both head and block.
Tilt the head left and right carefuly as the chain guides get in the way. I didn’t have anyone to take pictures of that but you will see what I mean.
Place it on a flat surface with rags, pillows, blankets, etc so that you don’t have it scratched, warped or anything bad. Don’t flip it upside down unless you remove all the rocker arms. If you remove them, keep them in order the way they came out.
If you use this pictures or any information, please contact me first at firstname.lastname@example.org for permission.